As memories of war grow ever more distant, Cambodia has become a much safer country in which to travel. Remembering the golden rule – stick to marked path: in remote areas – you’d be very unlucky to have any problems. But it doesn’t hurt to check on the latest situation before making a trip few other travelers undertake, particularly if traveling by motorcycle.
Begging
Begging is common throughout Cambodia, although much more evident in Phnom Penh and Siem Reap than elsewhere. There are many reasons for begging in a society as poor as Cambodia, some more visually evident than others, such as amputees who may have lost their legs in frontline battles during the civil war. It is entirely up to individual visitors whether to give or not, and to decide how much to offer, but remember that it is common practice for Buddhists to give to those more needy than themselves.
Big brown eyes, runny noses and grubby hands… the sight of children begging is familiar throughout the developing world, and Cambodia is no exception.
There are many child beggars around Phnom Penh and the temples of Angkor, and with their angelic faces it is often difficult to resist giving them some money. However, things to think about include; giving to child beggars may create a cycle of dependency that can continue into adulthood, the children may not benefit directly from the money, as they are often made to beg by a begging ‘pimp’ or their family; and some child beggars, particularly around central Phnom Penh, may use the money to buy glue to feed their sniffing habit. One way to help these impoverished children is to buy them some food or drink, or give them some of your time and attention – it is amazing how quickly they will forget about begging once they are being taught something simple like a whistle, a trick or a game.
The most common beggars, around the country are land mine victims. Many of these victims sustained these injuries fighting, while others have had their legs blown off while working or playing innocently in the fields. You may tire of their attention after a few days in Cambodia, but try to remember that in a country with no social security network, begging is often all they can do to survive. When giving to beggars, try to offer smaller denominations to avoid making foreigners more of a target than they already are.
Checkpoints
During the long years of civil war there were checkpoints on roads throughout the country. These were supposed to enhance security on provincial roads, but in reality they worsened the situation as the soldiers stationed at checkpoints learned to extort money from every vehicle passing through. However, the situation has improved vastly in recent years and none of the commonly traveled routes have checkpoints. Where there are checkpoints on major roads, spot checks may be carried out to make sure drivers have paid their road tax or are not carrying illegal guns.
If you are traveling in a taxi or pick-up truck in remote areas of Cambodia and come across a checkpoint, the driver should take care of the payment. If you are on a motorbike, you are unlikely to be stopped. However, should you ever find money being demanded of you, try to negotiate the sum to an acceptable level. Do not under any circumstances attempt to take photos of the individuals concerned as things could turn nasty.
Scams
There are fewer scams in Cambodia than neighboring countries, but now that tourism is really taking off this might change. Most current seams are fairly harmless, involving a bit of commission here and there for taxi or moto drivers, particularly in Siem Reap. More annoying are the ‘cheap’ buses from Bangkok to Siem Reap, deservedly nicknamed the ‘The Seam Bus’ for crossing the wrong borders, driving slowly and selling passengers to guesthouses.
There have been one or two reports of police set-ups in Phnom Penh, involving planted drugs. This seems to be very rare, but if you fall victim to the ploy. it will require patience and persistence to sort out, inevitably involving embassies and the like. It may be best to pay them off before more police get involved at the local station, as the price will only rise when there are more people to pay off.
Cambodia is renowned for its precious stones, particularly the rubies and sapphires that are mined around the Pailin area in western Cambodia. However, there are lots of chemically treated copies around, as much of the high quality stuff is snapped up by international buyers. The long and the short of it is: don’t buy unless you really know your stones.
Security
Cambodia is a pretty safe country to travel these days. Remembering the golden rule – stick to marked paths in remote areas – it is, now possible to travel throughout Cambodia with no more difficulty than in neighboring Thailand or Vietnam. Politically, Cambodia has proven an unpredictable country’ and this makes it hard to guarantee safety of travel at any given time. Suffice to say that; you are no longer a target just because you are a tourist.
For many years the security situation was the Achilles heel of Cambodia’s tourism industry. Certainly, during Cambodia’s civil war, personal security was an issue of greater concern than in neighboring countries.
Cambodia is something of a lawless society in which arms are often preferred to eloquence when settling a dispute. This ‘wild ‘ east’ atmosphere rarely affects tourists, but it is worth knowing about as you can expect: to hear gunshots from time to time (usually someone firing into the air when drunk). Phnom Penh is arguably one of the more dangerous places in Cambodia since peace has come to the provinces; it is here that the most guns are concentrated and the most robberies take place. This is closely followed by Sihanolikville, which has sadly developed a reputation for robbery and sneak theft. Elsewhere in the provinces you would be very unlucky to have any incident befall you, as the vast majority of Khmers are immensely hospitable, honest and helpful. More importantly, perhaps, the majority of Khmers are experiencing peace for the first time in more than 30 years and don’t want anything to disturb it.
Trying to pinpoint any lingering areas of concern around the country is always difficult as circumstances change quickly. Pailin and large parts of Oddar Meanchey and Preah Vihear Provinces were Khmer Rouge controlled until just a few years ago, but are now considered safe. However, if and when a trial for surviving Khmer Rouge leaders moves forward, it may be a different story just because the former rebels now wear Britney Spears T-shirts instead of Mao caps, doesn’t mean they have forgotten the fight.
Should anyone be unlucky enough to be robbed, it is important to note that the Cambodian police are the best that money can buy. Any help, such as a police report, is going to cost you. The going rate depends on the size of the claim, but US$20 is a common charge.
Snakes
Visitors to Ta Prohm at Angkor and other overgrown archaeological sites should beware of snakes, including the small but deadly light-green Haluman snake, which often emerges alter rainstorms to hunt for insects. They are very well camouflaged so keep your eyes peeled.
Theft & Street Crime
Given the number of guns in Cambodia, there is less armed theft than one might expect. Still, hold-ups and motorcycle theft are a potential danger in Phnom Penh and Sihanoukville. There is no need to be paranoid, just cautious. Walking or riding alone late at night is not ideal, certainly not in rural areas.
Pickpocketing and theft by stealth is more a problem in Vietnam than in Cambodia, but it pays to be careful. The current hotspots are crowded pick-up trucks on popular tourist routes such as Siem Reap to Poipet or Phnom Penh, and the markets of Phnom Penh. Don’t make it any easier for thieves by putting your passport and wads of cash in your back pocket. As a precaution, keep a ‘secret’ stash of cash separate from the bulk of your funds.
Traffic Accidents
Traffic conditions in Cambodia are chaotic although no worse than in many other under-developed countries. If you are riding a bike in Phnom Penh you should stay very alert and take nothing for granted. Traffic moves in all directions on both sides of the road, so don’t be surprised to see vehicles bearing down on you. The horn is used to alert other drivers of a vehicle’s presence – get out of the way if you hear a car or truck behind you.
None of the motor drivers in Cambodia use or provide safety helmets. Fortunately most of them drive at sensible speeds. If you encounter a reckless driver, ask them to slow down or pay them and find another moto.
Having a major traffic accident in Phnom Penh would be bad enough, but if you have one in rural Cambodia, you are in big trouble. Somehow you will have to get back to Phnom Penh for medical treatment.
The basic rule is to drive carefully – there have already been too many shattered dreams (Honda Dreams?) in Cambodia, and there’s no need to add to them.
Undetonated Mines, Mortars & Bombs
Never touch any rockets, artillery shells, mortars, mines, bombs or other war material you may come across. A favorite tactic of the Khmer Rouge was to lay mines along roads and in rice-fields in an effort to maim and kill civilians, thus so the twisted logic concludes – furthering the rebel cause by demoralizing the government. The only concrete results of this policy are the many limbless people you see all over Cambodia.
The most heavily mined part of the country is the Battambang and Pailin area, but mines are a problem all over Cambodia. In short: do not stray from well-marked paths under any circumstances. If you are planning any walks, even in safer areas such as the remote northeast, it is imperative you take a guide as there may be unexploded ordnance (UXO) from the American bombing campaign of the early 1970s.
Violence
Violence against foreigners is extremely rare and is not something you should waste much time worrying about, but it pays to take care in crowded bars or nightclubs in Phnom Penh. If you get into a stand-off with rich young Khmers in a bar or club, swallow your pride and back down. Still think you can ‘ave em’? Many carry guns, enough said.