Cambodia Travel Guide

Siem Reap (see-em ree-ep) is the gateway to Cambodia’s spiritual and cultural heartbeat, the temples of Angkor. The town was a quiet, sleepy backwater until a few years ago, but it’s quickly reinventing itself as a sophisticated centre for the new wave of visitors passing through each year. If Cambodia is hot right now, then Siem Reap Is at bolting over, the one place everyone coming to Cambodia will hit during their visit.

Around the centre, it remains a charming town with rural qualities. Old French shop houses, shady tree-lined boulevards and a gentle winding river are remnants of the past, while five-star hotels, air-con buses and International restaurants are pointers lo the future. The gold rush of recent years continues unabated in Siem Reap: hotels and guesthouses going up every month, restaurants and bars every week. Tourism is the lifeblood of Siem Reap and without careful management it could become Siem Reapolinos, the not so Costa-del-Culture of Southeast Asia. However, there are promising signs that developers are learning from the mistakes that have blighted other regional hot spots, with restrictions on the height of hotels and bus sizes. Either way, Angkor is centre stage on the world travel map right now and there is no going back for its supply line, Siem Reap.

Siem Reap is just north of the western extent of Tonlé Sap Lake. It’s the perfect place to relax for several days and many visitors end up staying a week, thanks to a good range of facilities, friendly and fun-loving locals, and the world’s most magnificent temples being slap-bang on the doorstep. Angkor is a place to be savored, not rushed, and Siem Reap the perfect place from which to plan your adventures.

Highlights

• See some of the world’s rarest large wafer birds at the sanctuary of Prek Toal
• Float through the flooded forest of Kompong Phhluk, an incredible village of bamboo skyscrapers
• See the forgotten temples of Angkor, hiding in town behind the modern pagodas of Wat Athvea and Wat Preah Inkosei
• Discover the secrets of Bar St, Siem Reap’s quaffing capital where the action goes on all night
• Relax with a massage or spa the perfect medicine for weary bodies
   



Tonle Sap Lake

Visitors come to Siem Reap to see Angkor. The sights in and around the town pale in comparison, but they are a potential diversion for those who find themselves templed out after a few days.

Wats
Open: 6am-6pm
Modern temples around Siem Reap offer an interesting contrast to the ancient sandstone – structures of Angkor. Wat Bo is one of the town’s oldest temples and has a collection of well-preserved wall paintings from the late-19th century depicting the Reamker Cambodia’s interpretation of the Ramayana. Another wat to consider is Wat Preah Inkosei (Open: 6am-6pm), built on the site of an early Angkorian brick temple north of town, which still stands today in the compound.

Wat Athvea
Open: 6am-6pm
South of the city centre, is an attractive pagoda on the site of an ancient temple. The old temple is still in very good condition and sees far fewer visitors than the main temples in the Angkor area, making it a peaceful spot in the late afternoon.

Wat Thmei
Open: 6am-6pm
On the left fork of the road to Angkor Wat, has a small memorial stupa containing the skulls and bones of victims of the Khmer Rouge. It also has plenty of young monks wanting to practise their English.

Wat Dam Nak
Open: 6am-6pm
Wat Dam Nak was formerly, a royal palace during the reign of King Sisowath, hence the name dam nak (palace). Today it is home to the Centre for Khmer Studies, an independent institution promoting a greater understanding of Khmer culture.

Artisans d’Angkor
Tel: 380354; www.artisansdanakor.com
Siem Reap is the epicentre of the drive to revitalize Cambodian traditional culture, which was dealt such a harsh blow by the Khmer Rouge and the year of instability that followed its rule.

Les Chantiers Écoles is a school specializing in teaching wood – and stone-carving technique to impoverished youngsters. The school has a beautiful shop on the premises, called Artisant d’Angkor which sells everything from elegant stone and wood reproductions of Angkorian era statues to household furniture.Tucked down a side road, the school cart be quite hard to find, but it’s now well signposted from Bakong Lodge.

There is also a second shop opposite Angkor Wat and outlets at Phnom Penh and Siem Reap international airports. Profits from sales go back into funding the school and bringing more teenagers into the training’ programme.

Shadow Puppets

The creation of leather sbei’ tuoi (shadow puppets) is a traditional Khmer art form, and the figures make a memorable souvenir. Characters include gods and demons from the Reamker, as well as exquisite elephants with intricate armour. These are a very Cambodian keepsake. The House of Peace Association makes these puppets, and small puppets cost about US$10 while larger pieces can be as much as US$150. One workshop is located at Wat Preah Inkosci and a second about 4km down NH6 on the way to the airport. La Noria Guesthouse hosts shadow puppet shows.

Miniature Replicas of Angkor’s Temples

One of the more quirky places in town is the garden of a local master sculptor, which houses miniature replicas of Angkor Wat, the Bayon and Banteay Srei. It is a bluffer’s way to get that aerial shot of Angkor without chartering a helicopter, although the astute might question the presence of oversized insects in the shot. Entry costs US$1.

Les Chantiers Écoles Silk Farm

Les Chatiers Écoles (see Artisans d’Angkor, left) also maintains a silk farm about 16km west of Siem Reap, just off the road to Sisophon in the village of Puok. All stages of the production process can be seen here, from the cultivation of mulberry tree to the dyeing and weaving of silk. The work produced and sold here is some of the best in the country.

Tonlé Sap Exhibition

North of town Krousar Thmey – a non-governmental organization (NGO) supporting orphans – has an interesting exhibition (admission free) about the Tonic Sap lake. The exhibition contains photos, models and fishing equipment from around the lake, as well as an informative video. After viewing the exhibition you can indulge in a massage (opposite).

The restaurant scene in Siem Reap has evolved at a dizzying pace and there is now something from every corner of the globe on dining tables around town, as well as the traditional taste of Cambodian cuisine. Many of the more established restaurants have been overrun by tour groups in recent years, making dining quite an impersonal experience, but the food remains good.

Some of the budget guesthouses have good menus offering a selection of local dishes and Western meals; while it’s all too easy to get into the habit of ordering in-house, it hardly counts as the full .Siem Reap experience.

Several of the midrange hotels and all the top-end places have restaurants, some of which warrant an individual listing in this section. When it comes to the luxury palaces and their gastronomic (by Cambodian standards astronomically priced) buffets, the Sofitel Royal Angkor still leads the pack, as you might expect from a French-run chain, but the Victoria Hotel also has a good reputation.

KHMER

Amok
Tel 012 800309 – Add: The Alley – Mains US$3-4
Named in honor of Cambodia’s national dish, and across the alley from Khmer Kitchen Restaurant, Amok is a small stylish restaurant with a big personality.

Arun Restaurant
Tel 944227- Mains US$2-3
Serving a popular selection of Khmer and Asian dishes long-running Arun is one of the few local Khmer places not to have been inundated by tour groups. Fish with ginger is an old favorite here. Arun is north of NH6 east.

Bayon Restaurant
Tel 012 855219 – Add: Ph Wat Bo – Mains US$2-4
This huge restaurant caters primarily to tour groups, but has a deserved reputation for tasty and authentic dishes. Set around an inner courtyard, this place has slick service, as staff are used to dealing with dozens at a time.

Café Indochine
Ph Sivatha – Mains US$4-7
Set in an elegant traditional villa on the main drag, this restaurant offers a blend of Asian and European flavors. The Khmer food is international more than authentic, but it’s all about ambience here.

Magic Butterfly
Tel 016 909607 – Add: NH6 west – Mains US$4-8
Hidden away from the bustle of the airport road in an old wooden house hemmed in by vegetation, this Khmer restaurant has oodles of character. It offers a fusion of Asian cuisines in exotic surroundings. It’s often busy with groups, but there are small tables on the veranda.

THAI

Chivit Thai
Tel: 012 830761 – Add: 130 Ph Wat Bo – Mains US$2-4
This is possibly the most atmospheric restaurant in town for Thai cuisine, as it is set in a green garden under traditional wooden pavilions. You can choose between floor dining or table dining and then spice up your life with some hot Thai favorites.

Sawasdee Restaurant
Tel: 012 983510 – Add: Ph Wat Bo – Mains US$2-4
Sawasdee is a reliable stop for authentic Thai food, including tasty fish cakes and buzzing curries.

Krua Thai Restaurant
Tel: 6963677 – Mains US$3-6
This new Thai- restaurant is a little way out of town on an up-and-coming strip near Angkor Conservation. Choose between the wooden house and the flourishing garden for dining and don’t rorget the bargain breakfast if you happen to be passing this way in the morning.

VIETNAMESE

Soup Dragon
Tel: 964933 – Add: Bar St – Vietnamese mains US$1-3 – Western mains US$4-6)

Hit the ground floor for classic Asian breakfasts like pho (Vietnamese rice-noodle soup) at 2500r, just the recipe for traipsing the temples. Upstairs an up market restaurant with a huge menu of Asian and international dishes. The spicy fish in clay pot is divine and there’s homemade ice cream to wrap things up. If you feel like a warm-up or a wind down, head for the rooftop bar (it donates 7% of its takings to Angkor Children’s Hospital).

JAPANESE

Ginga
Tel: 963366 – mains US$6-15
One of Phnom Penh’s best known Japanese restaurants now has a branch in Siem Reap, opposite the stadium, that does steady business with tour groups from the homeland. A slice of Sapporo, but at a price.

Sanctuary 36.50C
Tel: 964282 – Add: Psar Chaa – Sets from US$5)
A small Japanese restaurant opposite the old market. The bento boxes are good value for those in the market for sashimi or the like. It‘s more welcoming and less formal than upmarket Ginga.

INDIAN

Taj Mahal
Tel: 963353 – Add: Psar Chaa – Mains US$2-5
This is one of the best Indian restaurants in town, with a serious sub continental lection to satisfy seasoned curry lovers. The.thalis (set meals) are good value for those who can’t make up their mind.

Little India Restaunnt
Tel: 012 652398 – Add: Psar Chaa – Main US$2-4)
The oldest Indian in town – that’s the restaurant, not the owner – the food here is consistently good, with its share of vegetarian options.

INTERNATIONAL

Red Piano
Tel: 963240 – Mains US$3-5
This popular Siem Reap institution, north-west of Psar Chaa, now has a commanding balcony overlooking downtown Siem Reap and plenty of space for diners to relax. The menu has a bit for everyone, with some Khmer dishes and a Solid selection from beyond, plus it’s a popular pub with its famous “Tomb Raider” cocktail. The recently renovated Red Piano guesthouse is situated nearby down a quite side street.

Balcony Café
Mains US$1-6
Diagonally opposite the Red Piano restaurant is another grand old building, housing the Balcony, The menu includes some power shakes and a small selection of Khmer dishes and Western snacks, but there’s no alcohol served – that’s almost commercial suicide in a town like this. Still, 20% of profits go to rural development, so forgive and forget.

Tell Restaurant
Tel: 63289 – Add: Ph Sivatha – Mains US$1-6
One of the few air-con restaurants in town, something you may learn to appreciate if you are here in the hot season. The menu includes good-value Asian eats and some more-expensive Central European dishes. Big portions.

Kampucchino Pizza
Tel: 012 835762 – Mains US$2-6
This popular restaurant, north- east of Psar Chaa, has been around a while and it’s expanded along the street thanks to an international menu with something from every corner of the globe. There’s also good Khmer grub, like chicken with ginger.

Continental Café
Tel 963723 – Mains US$3-6
Occupying a handsome building on the riverfront northeast of Psar Chaa, this restaurant-bar has an eclectic menu, including a selection from Cambodia, Thailand and Indonesia, as well as popular pizzas. A quiet retreat these days.

Siem Reap is really rockin’ these days, a big change from just a few years ago when there were no real bars. One street now has so many drinking holes that it has earned the nickname Bar St and we are happy to go with that given the lack of street names in town! It is definitely worth hitting the bars at least once – each place has its own character, making it prime pub crawl territory.

Many of the bars here have happy hours, but so do some of the fancier hotels, which is a good way to sample the high life even if you are not staying at those places. Some of the best are the Elephant Bar at Grand Hotel d’Angkor, with happy hour from 4pm to 8pm when most drinks are two-for-one; L’Explorateur at Victoria Angkor Hotel, which kicks off late from 9pm to 11pm is also two-for-one; and FCC Angkor, with its Brunswick pro pool table, with happy hour from 5pm to 7pm.

Angkor What
Add: Bar St
One of the first and still one of the most popular bars in town. This hole in the wall heaves from 9pm most nights and stays open until the last person leaves. Sorted sounds and a bulging bar keep the punters happy and a small slice of the profits supports the Angkor Children’s Hospital, so drinking here helps someone’s liver (if not your own).

Temple Bar
Add: Bar St
Laterite stone and pediments give the exterior a temple feel, but the only worshipping going on here “all hail the ale”. Pavement tables, a generous happy hour from 4pm to 9pm with buy-two-get-one-free and some alternative rock have quickly earned it a loyal following.

Buddha Lounge
Add: Bar St
Opposite the Temple and in a similar vein, the Buddha Lounge brings a touch of the Heart of Darkness to town, as the owner used to work in the famous Phnom Penh bar of that name. Spiritual decor and spirited drinks should bring success.

Linga Bar
Add: The Alley
Siem Reap’s it and currently only gay bar in town welcomes all-comers with a laid-back lounge look that wouldn’t seem out of place in any major city. A cracking cocktail list, tapas tasters on the small menu and dance beats are helping to spread the word.

Molly Mallone’s
Add: Bar St
This Irish pub brings a bit of the Emerald Isle to home-sick Irish (and Brits and everyone else for whom Irish bars have become institutions!) in Siem Reap. Big bar menu, Guinness in cans and the word is that draught is soon on its way…

Ivy Bar
Add: Psar Chaa
This well-known long-running English bar has recently relocated up the road, offering a spacious and sophisticated setting in which to take a drink at any time of day. The international bar menu is one of the best in town.

Butterfly Garden Bar
Admission US$1 – Open: 9am-5pm)
The tropical garden here is home to hundreds of live butterflies flitting under a huge net. It’s a quiet spot in which to pass the time when it’s hot, and it’s hot, and small menu includes drinks and international dishes.

Martini
Add: Wat Dam Nak area
Nothing to do with its namesake in Phnom Penh, this is probably the most popular Khmer nightclub in town, with a large beer garden and a dark, dark disco. Try some rom vong, the popular Cambodian dancing that involves everyone gliding around in circles and flapping their arms dementedly. We say everyone, but we mean foreigners – Khmers carry themselves with genuine grace.

Several restaurants and hotels offer cultural performances during the evening, and for many visitors such shows offer the only opportunity to see Cambodian classical dance. While they may be tourist traps and nowhere near as sophisticated as a performance of the Royal Ballet in Phnom Penh, to the untrained eye it is nonetheless graceful and alluring. All prices include a buffet meal.

Apsara Theatre
Admission US$22
The most atmospheric show is at Apsara Theatre at Angkor Village, as the setting is a striking wooden pavilion finished in the style of a wat. Grand Hotel d’Angkor has an attractive performance house on the banks of Stung Siem Reap, opposite the hotel, admission is US$22.

Tonlé Sap Restaurant
Tel: 963388 – Add: NH6 west – show US$12 – Open: 7.30pm
Tonlé Sap Restaurant offers a large, impersonal show that pulls in the big tour groups who chow down on Khmer and Sukiyaki, as well as Malay, Japanese and European dishes.
There is also a weekly performance of shadow puppetry at La Noria Guesthouse (opposite).

Beatocello
www.beatocello.com
Better known as Dr Beat Richner, performs original and Bach cello compositions on Saturday at 7.15pm at Jayavarman VII Children’s Hospital. Entry is free, but donations are welcome as they will help the hospital in its mission to give free medical treatment to Siem Reap’s children.