Cambodia Travel Guide

Sihanoukville is the closest thing you get to the Costa del Cambodia, but fear not, development here is light years behind most Thai resorts, let alone Spain. The charmless town is fortunate enough to be hemmed in on all sides by palm-fringed, squeaky, white-sand beaches and undeveloped tropical islands. Visitor numbers have sky- rocketed in the past few years and the coast here is set for a facelift, particularly if the much vaunted flights to Siem Reap actually take off.

Named in honour of the then-king, the town was hacked out of the jungle in the late 1950s to create the country’s first and only deep-water port; the USA provided the money for NH4 linking Sihanoukville to Phnom Penh. During the 1960s, it experienced a mini tourism boom and some large hotels were constructed, but Kep remained the most popular beach resort. With the over- throw of Sihanouk in 1970, the town’s name was changed to Kompong Som and didn’t revert back to Sihanoukville until 1993. Cambodians refer to the town by both names – royalists preferring to use Sihanoukville, and old-guard former communists choosing Kompong Som.

The big attractions around here are the four beaches ringing the headland. None of them qualify as the region’s finest, but on weekdays it is still possible to have stretches of the beach to yourself. However, as traveller numbers increase, this seclusion is unlikely to last. Sihanoukville is extremely popular on weekends with well-to-do Khmers heading south from Phnom Penh. Beyond the immediate beaches sur- rounding the town are the virtually empty beaches of Ream National Park and Otres, and a dozen more islands that see less than 0.1% of the visitors received by their counterparts in Thailand.

The battle continues for the heart and soul of Sihanoukville. Some Cambodian businessmen and their associates from neighbouring countries want to turn the town into a concrete Casino town of mega resorts, while some expats from nearby Pattaya want to turn it into a sort of sex, sea and sun go-go resort. On the other side, younger expats are hoping to make a new Ko Pha Ngan on Cambodia’s southern coast with the birth of Serendipity Beach, while other investors rub their hands and hope for a Ko Sarnui gold rush and pleasant garden bungalows set among swaying palms. Whoever wins out in the end, it’s certain that Sihanoukville is evolving fast. Like Siem Reap, this is another place in Cambodia that doesn’t stay still

BEACHES
The beaches at Sihanoukville are in a state of flux, as developers move in to cash in on the tourism boom. The best all-rounder is Occheuteal Beach; the northern end has emerged as quite a popular traveler hang-out nick- named Senndipity Beach, while further south it is popular with Khmers and midrange tourists staying in the nearby hotels. Serendipity Beach is a cool place to chill out with a drink, but it gets very crowded these days and has rocky waters. It may also be given a new name by the time you read this, because, as we write, there is a comical court case unfolding about the rights to the name. Chuck, the American who coined the name, claims he owns rights to it and is suing anyone who uses it in their marketing! Lining the back of Occheuteal are pine trees, which provide useful shade in the heat of the day. The sand stretches on southwards for a couple of kilometers and it’s worth trekking down here if you want a bit of privacy. A new resort is slowly under construction in the central part of the beach.

Just around a small headland at the southern end of Occheuteal Beach is Otres Beach, a seemingly infinite strip of empty white sand. Government officials are eagerly dividing up land behind the beach, but for now there are still no bungalows and fewer visitors make it here than to other beaches around town. To get to Otres Beach, follow the road behind Occheuteal Beach before branching left then right around a small headland or follow Ph Omoouy east out of town from Psar Leu for about 7km: both are rough tracks.

Sokha Beach is perhaps the prettiest and most popular beach at Sihanoukville, but it has been privatized with the opening of the huge Sokha Beach Resort. Guests get to enjoy the privacy, but for everyone else, the small slither of beach at the eastern end isn’t enough.

Victory Beach was the original backpacker beach and remains a favorite with budget travelers due lo its proximity to Sihanoukville’s most popular guesthouses. It’s arguably the least appealing of all the beaches, as the port is located at its northern end – hardly making for the perfect tropical moment – and the beach itself is narrow and scruffy. South from here, around a small headland, is another small stretch of sand, usually also known as Victory Beach, but also signposted as Lamherkay Beach, after the old hotel near here.

Further south on the western tip of Sihanoukville’s headland is tiny Koh Pos Beach, which has been taken over by Treasure Island Restaurant. This is a nice, shady beach, but with rough waters. Finally, there is Independence Beach running southeast from here – it’s a good stretch of clean sand, but lacks shade and facilities. Above the northern end of the beach is the old Indepandance Hotel, soon to reopen its doors as a four-star hotel after extensive renovations.

DIVING
The marine life off the coast of Sihanoukville isn’t as impressive as that of Thailand or Indonesia, thanks in part to dynamite fishing. However, further afield around the islands of Koh Tang and Koh Prim and nearby reefs, there are some interesting dive sites, although most remain relatively unexplored. Unfortunately, this area can’t be reached in a day using the slow fishing boats and so requires an overnight trip, which pushes up the costs.
There are currently three dive operators in Sihanoukville. In theory, they  are open 9am to 12pm and 2pm to 5pm, but in practice hours are completely random.

Claude
Tel 012 824570 – Add:Chez Claude
Claude has been exploring the waters of Sihanoukville for more than a decade now, and specicialises in longer trips to distant reefs.

EcoSea Dive
Tel 012 654104 – Add: Ph Ekareach
One of the newer outfits offering Professional Association of Diving Instructors (PADI) courses, fun dives and snorkelling.

Scuba Nation Diving Center
Tel 012 604680 – Add: Weather Station Hill
The first Professional Assosiation of Diving Instructors (PADI) centre to open in Cambodia. The multilingual instructor; offer classes in English, Dutch, French and German.

MASSAGE
There are lots of dodgy massage parlours in Sihanoukville, but or a legitimate venue, head to Seeing Hands Massage 3 (Tel 012 794016 – Add: Ph Ekareach -  per hr US$3). Massages are administered by trained blind masseurs. It raises money to assist Cambodia’s visually impaired community.

OTHER ATTRACTIONS
Kbal Chhay Waterfall is a popular excursion for Khmers visiting Sihanoukville, as it was used as a major location for the filming of the popular movie Pos Keng Kong (The Giant Snake; 2000), the most successful Cambodia made Film in the post-civil war era. The multiple falls are attractive, but not as spectacular or isolated as those near Krong Koh Kong. There is also a litter problem here that rather detracts from the natural beauty. Anyone who has seen or is planning to see the falls at Krong Koh Kong can probably give Kbal Chhay a miss. For anyone who has seen Pos Keng Kong, it’s a must. The falls are located about 17km from the centre of Sihanoukville. The turn-off is signposted on the left from NH4, about 9km out of town. It costs around US$4 for a re- turn trip by motor, but it’s easy enough to navigate yourself on a rented motorcycle.

Just 2km north of the main port is a fishing port, which offers good photo opportunities at sunrise or sunset. Another 20km up the coast is the small Fishing town of Stung Hau, where the rusting remains of Cambodia’s communist navy lie abandoned

There’s a healthy selection of restaurants and cates in Sihanoukville. Most are open from about 7am for breakfast and close after dinner at around 9pm or 10pm. The backpacker area on Weather Station Hill claims a dozen or more restaurants, plus decent food at many of the guesthouses. The centre of gravity has definitely shifted to Serendipity Beach, which is also a good spot for beachside barbecues. However, other beaches around town have a couple of seafood restaurants, while the centre of town has a few places that can be useful for before or after a bus trip or during a night on the town. Most beaches attract vendors selling everything from pineapples and quail eggs to freshly grilled prawns and fish. You may find it all a bit of a hard sell if you are just trying to relax on the beach, but provided you bargain, this can be an inexpensive way to snack your way through the day.

Weather Station Hill
The original budget-dining centre of town. Places here offer a good range of tasty and inexpensive cuisines, served out of basic wooden shacks.

Mealy Chenda Restaurant
Mains US$1-3
The rooftop restaurant at Mealy Chenda Guest-house draws a mixed crowdat night, including local Khmers. The menu includes an evening seafood barbecue as well as back- packer breakfasts, but service can be slow if it’s busy. A good spot for a sunset beer.

Romduol’s Restaurant
Main 3000-5000r
The menu here is uncannily like that of Mealy Chenda, as it was set up by a former employee of the guesthouse. Located just across the road, dishes are competitively priced in riel rather than US dollars, and it fills up most nights.

Sam’s Restaurant
Mains US$1-3
One of the original guesthouses in town continues life as a small family-run restaurant. The menu strikes a nice balance between Khmer and Western food and it is a friendly place to hang out.

La Paillotte
Mains USS3-7
Bringing a touch of class to an otherwise budget backyard, this new restaurant is set under a giant thatched roof at the end of a winding path. The accent is predominantly French, with a good range of local seafood soaked in sauces. Out the front is a laid-back liar with a pool table.

Snake House
Tel: 012 673805 – Mains US$2-5
‘Unique’ is a used and abused term in tourism circles, but for once it is justified at this restaurant, near the guesthouse of the same name (opposite). The tables are set amid a flourishing reptile house with snakes from all over the world. The food, well, that’s incidental when there’s a python to your left, a cobra to your right and snakes right underneath your plate… yes, the glass-topped tables include snakes inside.

Nightlife in Sihanoukville continues to gather pace with more and more travellers crossing by land from Thailand. The late-opening spots are all in the centre of town or at Serendipity Beach, but there are a whole lot of beach shacks further south on Occheuteal that heave until the early hours. It is hard to recommend any by name, as they may not be around much longer, once the new resort opens in this part of town.

With the Angkor Brewery located on the outskirts of town, draught beer is very cheap – it starts at US$0.50 at some of the budget restaurants on Weather Station Hill. Melting Pot, Romduol’s Restaurant and Mealy Chenda Restaurant  all pull a drinking crowd into the evening, but for the real action it is better to hit a dedicated bar.

Pet’s Place
Tel: 012 472325 – Add: Weather Station Hill
A long-running bar that has moved all over town; it’s come to rest here and is one of the most popular places in the old backpacker quarter. Cheap drink and a pool table should keep it that way and there are rooms for rent (US$2 to US$5) for those that like the place so much they want to stay.

Corner Bar
Add: Weather Station Hill
It does what the sign says and straddles the busiest corner in this part of town. A hot spot for catching English Premier League action, it stays open later than most on the hill.

Angkor Arms
Add: Ph Ekareach – www.angkorarms.com
Probably the oldest bar in town, this place sells itself as a traditional British pub with darts and draught beer. There is air-con on the inside and a large outdoor area for those who want a drink au naturel. Happy hour is from 5pm to 7pm, and it’s open late.

Dusk til Dawn
Add: Ph Sopheakmongkol
Right next door to Angkor Arms, this place is located on the rooftop of a townhouse, up a rickety staircase. The name gives away its hardcore opening hours and it is usually the last place in town to close. Just mind the stairs on the way home.

Blue Storm
Add: Ph Ekareach – Entry free
This is the only real nightclub in town. It can be pretty quiet on weekdays, but it tends to be crammed at the weekends when young Khmers make for the beach. With DJs, VJs and slightly more-pricey drink than elsewhere in town, don’t come here expecting conversation.

Down on Serendipity Beach there are a couple of popular bars, including 24-hour Unkle Bob’s that rocks on into the night. There’s also the ever-popular Eden, with an inviting bar to prop up and some horizontal deckchairs for taking things slowly.

Prepare for the divine inspiration! The temples of Angkor, capital of Cambodia’s ancient Khmer empire, are the perfect fusion of creative ambition and spiritual devotion. The Cambodian god-kings of old each strove to better their ancestors in size, scale and symmetry, culminating in the world’s largest religious building – Angkor Wat, and one of the world’s weirdest – the Bayon. The hundreds of temples surviving today are but the sacred skeleton of the vast political, religious and social centre of an empire that stretched from Burma to Vietnam, a city that, at its zenith, boasted a population of one million when London was a scrawny town of 50,000. The houses, public buildings and palaces were constructed of wood – now long decayed – because the right to dwell in structures of brick or stone was reserved for the gods.

The temples of Angkor are the heart and soul of the Kingdom of Cambodia, a source of inspiration and national pride to all Khmers as they struggle to rebuild their lives after years of terror and trauma. Today, the temples are a point of pilgrimage for ails Cambodians, and no traveler to the region will want to miss their extravagant beauty.

It is easy to spend as long as a week at Angkor, seeing the temples at a leisurely pace, returning to the principal attractions several times to see them at different times of day, and taking in newly emerging sites further a field. However, many travelers feel that four or five days is the ideal length of time to spend at Angkor. This is just about long enough to fit in all the highlights of the Angkor area, but even with only two days at your disposal you can pack in a lot (providing you make some early starts). One day at Angkor? Sacrilege! Don’t even consider it.

HIGHLIGHTS

Must see temple of Angkor activities:

• Stare in awe at the mother of all temples, Angkor Wat
• Succumb to the enigmatic smiles of the 216 giant faces of the Bayon, Angkor’s strangest temple
• Experience nature running riot at the mysterious ruin of Ta Prohm, the original Tomb Raider temple
• Marvel at the exquisite carvings adorning the tiny temple of Banteay Srei, the finest seen at Angkor
• Venture into the jungles of Cambodia to discover the River of a Thousand Lingas at Kbal Spean