Cambodia Adventure Guide

Now you know what the Gear Shifting Components are, it is time to learn the Very Basics of the Mountain Bike Techniques of Shifting Gears.

• The right-hand lever operates the rear gear (moving the chain across the sprockets)
• The left-hand lever operates the front mechanism, which shifts the chain from one chain-wheel to another.
• When the chain is on the big chain-wheel you will be in a bigger gear – usually used for riding along the flat or downhill.
• The smaller (inner) chain-wheels are used for uphill work, riding with luggage, or into a strong headwind, or perhaps around town when you need a low gear to cope with lots of stopping and starting at traffic lights or junctions.
• With the chain on the smallest rear wheel sprocket, you will be in a big gear, travelling further for each revolution of the pedals.
• The biggest sprocket provides your lowest gear for hill climbing or starting off from junctions.
• Unlike a three-speed hub gear, a derailleur mechanism needs you to keep pedaling to get the chain to shift from one sprocket (or chain-wheel) to the next.
• Depending on the size (number of teeth) of the chain-wheels and the sprockets there will be some overlap of gear sizes between the different chain-wheels.
• Whether you ride on the roads or on trails your gear changing has to be instinctive to avoid any problems with traffic or technical terrain. Therefore it is very necessary to understand how the different Gear Shifting Components act together.

Gear Shifting Examples

Now you know the Gear Shifting Components and the Very Basics of Gear Shifting, it is time to give you some examples of Gear Ratios and other Gear Shifting Examples.

The Heaviest Gear Ratio
This is the big ring (48 teeth) combined with the smallest sprocket (11 teeth). This actually means that for every 1 revolution of your leg, it will make the rear wheel rotate 4.36 times (48 ÷ 11 = 4.36). This will achieve relatively high speed which is good for downhill.

The Lightest Gear Ratio
This is the small chain-ring (20 teeth) combined with the biggest sprocket (36 teeth). This will give you a revolutionary ratio of 0.55 to one revolution of pedal. This ratio is used in climbing really steep mountains or hills.

Shifting gears
Shift the gears 1-3 noches at a time rather from smallest to biggest in one motion. However, systems like the Rapid-Fire system only allows up to 3 noches up per shift so that would be guide enough.

Don’t use the big plate with the biggest sprocket and the small plate with the smallest sprocket. This will cause the chain to have a “cross-over” effect which will either cause strain on the chain and or make it too loose respectively.

When using the middle plate, the complete range of the sprockets can be used.
Lastly, anticipate the terrain and shift in advance. This will help in having continuous momentum. Example, when approaching a climb, you can start shifting to a lower gear. You wouldn’t want to get caught with a heavy gear at the start of a climb. This will make you loose momentum and may cause you to be left behind thus forcing you to apply more effort than needed in the first place.

Before we go into detail about how to shift gears on your Mountain Bike, it should be first explained what the Mountain Bike Gear Shifting System Components are. This to give you an idea what happens technically if you shift gears; if you understand how the gears work, shifting gears will be something that comes natural instead of a thing that you should memorize.

The crank which is bolted onto the bottom bracket consists of three chain-rings. Chain Rings are bolted into the cranks. They come in three size ranges. The big ring (48-42 teeth), the middle ring (36-32 teeth), and the small or “granny ring” (26-20 teeth).

The “sprockets” or “cogs” are found in the rear hub. Modern sprockets consist of 7-9 size ranges from 36-11 teeth. Normally, the 7 & 9 speed sprockets have the same heavy and light gear. The difference is in the mid-range gears. The 9-speed sprocket has more mid-range speed which lessens the change in speed upon up or down shift.

Of the things that you also need to control besides the Basic riding techniques is Mounting and Dismounting your Mountain Bike. Yes, we know it sounds just too easy… Who does not know how to Mount or Dismount a Bike!?!? We must admit – this is kind of true. But are you certain of yourself that you are Mounting and Dismounting your Mountain Bike efficiently, safely, quickly and in the best possible way…?
That is why we have created this section.

Mounting your Mountain Bike:

1. Check that the size of the gear is not too large or too low. In either case it means that you cannot get any hold of the surface and that you in most cases cannot mount your bike. If you need to change the gear, then lift up the back wheel and shift gears while you turn the pedals with one foot.
2. Hold handlebar with both of your hands
3. One pedal should be in the 2 o’clock position
4. Lift your right leg over the back of the saddle and place your right foot onto the pedal. Flick the pedal round to engage the toe-clip or cleat mechanism.
5. Bring the right pedal up to the two o’clock position. Push down with your right foot to begin pedaling
6. Push off with your left foot
7. Bring your backside onto the saddle
8. As the left pedal comes round the ‘top-dead-centre’, places your left foot on the pedal and continues pedaling.

Dismounting your Mountain Bike:

1. Decrease your biking speed by beginning to brake if you want to dismount your bike. Use both brakes evenly, unless it is downhill, in which case use the front brake very lightly. If you are going uphill, you do not need to do anything as velocity will be decreased automatically if you stop pedaling

Right-sided dismount:
2. If you have come to a standstill, place your left foot on the floor.
3. Lean the bike slightly to the left side and move off the saddle to place your left foot flat on the ground and then take your right foot of the pedal and bring your right leg round and over the back of the saddle so that you are standing with the bike on your right.

Left-sided dismount:
The same as point 2 and 3 but with the other foot

In most cases you might prefer either the left- or the right-sided dismount, but it is advised that you should also feel comfortable with the other side dismount. The reason for this is that is could come in handy, if your preferred side is impractical due to barriers.

TRACK RACING BIKE

The track racing bike is one of the fastest bikes that you can get. Even though there is only one original track racing bike, there are a few spin-offs that are modeled off the original. If you have long legs and love to move really fast, then you should get a track racing bike and be a speed demon.

Frame: The frame on this bike is very lightweight so the bicycle can go as fast as possible.

Gears: This bike has one fixed gear. Their racers or riders do not have to change gears at all so they can go as fast as possible.

Tires: The tires on the track racing bike are amazing. They can be pumped up to 240 pounds per square inch. The tires have a whole lot of traction so they can grip onto the track.

Brakes: The track racing bike has absolutely no brakes. To make the bike as fast as possible, it has to be lightweight. Therefore you eliminate the brakes because the racers never have to use them. After the race they just keep going until they slow down enough to get off.

Wheels: The wheels on this bike are different from most other bikes. When the wheels turn the pedals do to so there is no coasting. The wheels are made a metal alloy so they are as light as possible.

Handle bars: The handlebars on racing bikes are very low so the rider can lean down and increase aerodynamics.

BMX BIKE

If you don’t like to ride on streets and sidewalks, but love to have bike races on dirt roads, do lots of tricks, and try some stunts, then a BMX bike is the perfect bike for you. A BMX bike looks similar to a motorcycle, but BMX bikes are made for racing, stunts and tricks; therefore, they do not have as many parts and they are very light.

Frame: The frame on the BMX bike is like a triangle. They have extra pieces to connect the tubes together so the bike can take heavier hits.

Gears: These bikes have only one fixed gear, so the bike is even lighter.

Tires: This type of bike has tires with very good traction so they can turn better.

Brakes: It also has three different kinds of brakes: a rear wheel brake, front wheel, and coaster brakes.

Wheels: The classic dirt bike has tiny twenty-inch wheels. This makes the bike astonishingly lightweight.

Pedals: The pedals on a BMX racing bike are made of an alloy, a mixture of metals, so they will be very light.

Handle bars: It has high braced handlebars that slant to the back

HYBRID BIKE

Do you like a nice, easy ride? If you don’t like rugged trails and you’re not into racing, then this lightweight bike is perfect for you. You’ll get a smoother ride for you guys out there who aren’t serious bike riders. A hybrid is a combination of a mountain bike and a road bike. It was made for rough bike paths and for light off-road riding.

Frame: The frame is made of lightweight steel and aluminum. It was made for comfortable upright riding.

Gears: The hybrid has a fair amount of gears, because it is a combination. It has no ultra low gears like the mountain bike because you are not supposed to ride it on heavy, rugged terrain.

Tires: The hybrid has fairly big tires, bigger than most mountain bikes. The tires are pumped as much as they can and are definitely high pressure.

Brakes: The brakes on this bike are very sensitive and efficient. You can stop all of a sudden and not skid very much.

Wheels: The wheels on hybrids are thick. They are like mountain bike wheels, yet light, like a road bike.

Handle bars: The handlebars on hybrids are very upright which is very similar to the frame. The handlebars also have great traction and grip.

MOUNTAIN BIKE

Have you ever wondered why people have different kinds of bikes? Why doesn’t everybody have the same bike? Well I’m going to tell you why you should get a mountain bike or a different bike depending on what’s right for you.

In the 80′s, mountain bikes were beginning to become popular. The reason is because they can ride on most things. They can ride easily on rough terrain including dirt roads, mountains, etc. But they can also ride on street roads and other smooth surfaces. Plus, they can ride on them pretty fast. People liked this idea of riding on practically anything and that’s why it became popular. Today, many people including me have a mountain bike for the same reason.

The frames can be made of titanium, carbon-fiber, or other materials. Mountain bikes can handle very well.

You’re probably wondering what features a mountain bike has. Mountain bikes have some features that other bikes have and some features that other bikes don’t have.

Frame: Mountain bikes have sturdy frames

Gears: A gear is system of 21 speeds.

Tires: Wide, knobby tires to ride over rough terrain

Wheels: A wheel size of 26 inches

Handle bars: Flat handlebars

Suspension: Front and rear suspensions (optional)

ROAD BIKE

Do you like to ride fast as lightning? Are you interested in riding on streets and sidewalks but not rugged trails? Then I have the perfect bike for you – the Road Bike.

The main thing the road bike built for is speed. The road bike is similar to the bikes that race in the Tour de France. Don’t you want to be like a famous bike rider in the tour de France? If you do, go out and buy a road bike! It can be used for a race or just riding around in the park. It is more of a modern 10 speed and a lot safer. If you can’t afford to buy a Mountain bike or hybrids, go out and buy a road bike. You’ll be so happy with the light weight frame, drop bars and all the other things that you can get on the road bike.

Frame: The frame is very light. It has a narrow seat. The frame is usually aluminum, carbon or titanium.

Gears: To change gears you push a lever under the brakes to change gears. That makes changing gears really easy. Keep your gear at a lower gear.

Tires: The tires are so strong that they could hold a bomb squad. The tires are less than an inch wide. If it is a rainy day the road bike has better traction than any other bike.

Brakes: The road bike has caliper brakes. The brakes are sensitive to small changes. The brakes don’t have a lot of braking power.

Pedals: When you push the pedals you move the bike forward. The pedals have a lot of grip in case of rain or anything slippery.

Handle bars: Most road bikes have drop bars. The drop bars come in many different shapes. The drop bar allows you to have many different positions with your hands.

There’s a lot of history and information floating around about the origins of mountain biking, some that’s recognized and some that depends on who has the best public relations firm. Mountain biking would have happened somewhere and it did.

Did it begin with the Buffalo Soldiers, a turn-of-the-century infantry who customized bicycles to carry gear over rough terrain? It was August 1896, the riders, black enlisted men and a white lieutenant, rode from Missoula, Montana, to Yellowstone and back, an arduous 800 miles. Their mission: to test the bicycle for military use in mountainous terrain.

Or was it the Velo Cross Club Parisian (VCCP) of France? Comprised of about 20 young bicyclists from the outskirts of Paris, who between 1951 and 1956, they developed a sport that was remarkably akin to present-day mountain biking. These riders juiced up their French 650-B bikes with an extraordinary degree of technical sophistication.

Maybe it was John Finley Scott who was probably the first mountain bike enthusiast in the United States. In 1953 he built what he called a “Woodsie Bike”, using a Schwinn World diamond frame, balloon tires, flat handlebars, derailleur gears, and cantilever brakes. John was more than twenty years ahead of his time, and while he remained an off-road cycling enthusiast, at the time there were not many others who shared his passion.

We believed that the inception of mountain biking needed to be a continuous series of events that connected with one another as opposed to an isolated incident. Another example, in the early 1970s there were a band of cyclists – The Cupertino Riders, AKA – the Morrow Dirt Club, from Cupertino California, 75 miles south of Marin, who were modifying their bikes. They were grafting thumb-shift-operated derailleurs and motorcycle lever-operated drum brakes to their klunkers to help them get up and down the south bay hills. They competed against some future hall-of-famers at a Marin County Cylcecross race in late 1974, where their technology was noticed. Then they disappeared.

We believe that the continuous history of the mountain bike is most evident in Northern California. There are a few areas that will claim to be the first mountain bike community, but every history book will lead you to Marin County. The origins of mountain biking were totally innocent. It came into being not as some faddist vision of profit-oriented marketing types, but rather as the product of true cycling enthusiasts trying to find something new to do on two wheels. These cyclists found through fun and competition that the old one-speed klunkers they were using could be improved with modern cycling technology. One thing led to another and mountain biking – “the sport” – was born.